on.raw.photography

The test continues and convinces me to use Gray Click. Then, when it's easy to see, it's even more accurate.


Hi robyferrero,

You’re absolutely right — in certain situations, GrayClick definitely has advantages over AutoColor, especially in photos where there's a clearly visible neutral gray ...

Here's an example of flowers adjusted with AutoColor + RingAround.
It's true that there aren't any bright colors, but overall, there's no strong brightness either; there are a few brighter spots on some petals.


I think it is these brighter spots on the petals which are considered to be the ...

To summarize the working order:
1. Initial neutral balance (gray click or AutoColor).
2. Set black point and BP colors using BPTails.
3. Evaluate FilmType / SubType / FilmGamma — refine only if necessary (not per-image).
4. Finalize CC filter pack using gray click, AutoColor, Ring CC, numeric ...

Thank you so much for your detailed and clear explanation, Christoph. Clearly once again a lot of new information and techniques for me to slowly understand and digest.

I tried following the steps you described and noticed something curious: whenever I use Gray-Click and then click AutoColor (or ...

I can say that, from the little I have tried ColorNegDC — it was a test I had to do — it has already given me the best results I have ever had on that image, an image that was not so perfect and had mixed lighting. So I think that with more experience, the results will be astonishing.


Hi ...

After reading the following post and article, I have a deeper understanding of how the color calibration of CP3 works.
https://on.raw.photography/viewtopic.php?t=964
https://www.colorperfect.com/filmtype_subtype.html?lang=en


If I understand correctly, when everything is set up properly — and ...

For ColorNeg DC, I’d like to create a sibling documentation to the existing one for black and white film .

This is so great. Really looking forward to it!


The whole ColorNeg DC topic goes much deeper than one might think, as over the past couple of years I’ve explored it quite extensively ...

Thank you so much for such a comprehensive and detailed explanation.

In particular, the part about color spaces was extremely enlightening for me. I’ve long lacked the theoretical understanding behind it — my observations came only from repeated practical experiments. I often noticed that when ...

Exactly. Don't over expose the unexposed base of the film. Nothing can be brighter than it in a color negative and you're totally safe.


I see. So basically try to expose the unexposed base of film to its limit but not over exposed, is the nearly best exposure for DC scans. Thank you Christoph ...

Guidelines

Watch the brightest channel first.
If its data ends well before mid-histogram, add +1 EV.
If less than a quarter of bins are populated, add +2 EV.
In practice, including unexposed film base in your frame is very helpful: nothing on the negative can be brighter, so it acts as ...

Welcome, Ethan,

get ready for the big job of 350 rolls, because the time has come :-)

From my perspective as a Color Perfect user, you can't find better.

The point is, you can't find better, not only for scans or reproductions from digital cameras, but also for native Raw files.

PerfectRAW ...

Welcome, Ethan — great to have you here!

Anyone who has spent years exploring both lab scans and home scanning — from the Nikon 5000ED to the Hasselblad X5 and camera-based setups — will know just how unlikely what you’ve just found actually is.
You’ve clearly gone deep into the subject, and ...

Dear ColorPerfect Team,

I am a chinese photographer specializing in street and landscape photography, and share my work on Instagram and other social media platforms. I have been mainly shooting on film for nearly fifteen years.

About two years ago, I decided to move from lab-scan to home-scan ...